Wednesday, May 01, 2013

Wavy shelf


Next the Son, the Stunning-Cantab:

He suggested curves of beauty,
Curves pervading all his figure,
Which the eye might follow onward,
Till they centered in the breast-pin,
Centered in the golden breast pin.
He had learned it all from Ruskin 
(Author of "The Stones of Venice,"
"Seven Lamps of Architecture,"
"Modern Painters," and some others);
And perhaps he had not fully 
Understood his author's meaning;
But, whatever was the reason,
All was fruitless, as the picture 
Ended in an utter failure.

-from Hiawatha's Photographing, by Lewis Carroll


Saturday, March 16, 2013

Shop Essentials

A friend of mine is building a treehouse for his kids, and it got me thinking about how I'd outfit an empty garage for that kind of work.

These are the basic ingredients I had in my shop around the time I started to find that I could build big wood projects start to finish without a trip to the hardware store.  It's a real milestone that feels great.

In each category, I've listed the most important items first.  I have a home depot nearby, so I've linked to the brands and items I prefer.  Lowe's has comparable stuff in general.

Stock:

  • at least 20 8 foot 2x4s (Kiln Dried, not green), should be about $2/each.  Try to pick straight-ish ones, but no 2x4 is ever going to be perfectly straight or flat.  (Pretty much every other piece of dimensional lumber in the store is going to be green (look it up) except maybe some of the redwood, which is why the KD 8' studs are my go-to building block.
  • at least 5 sheets 3/4" cheap birch cabinet plywood or outdoor/marine-rated plywood (get it somewhere like Macbeath rather than a big box store: http://www.macbeath.com/  Should cost about $30/sheet)
  • at least 5 sheets 1/4" melamine-backed MDF (should be about $30/sheet).  Watch out, the melamine edges are very sharp.  Knock down edges quickly with sandpaper
  • A 6-foot or so piece of ~1/8" thick 1" angle iron can be handy; it's super strong.  Hard to work with.


Fasteners:

  • 5lb box of 1 1/4" screws.  Use with plywood
  • 5lb box of 2 1/2" screws.  Use with 2x4s
  • 1lb box each of 1 5/8", 2", 3", 4", 5" screws



Get an organizer box like this and fill it with 1/4"x20 zinc-coated hardware.  This will cover all your bolt+nut needs.  Get boxes of ~100 each of these (50 or 25 for the longer bolts):

  • 2 boxes nuts
  • 2 boxes washers
  • 1 box of wing nuts
  • 1 box each hex bolts (aka hex cap screws) 1 3/4", 2", 2.5", 3", 3.5", 4", 5"
A drywall anchor assortment can also be handy for indoor handyman stuff.  Studfinders mostly suck.
A few feet of threaded rod (1/4-20, maybe something thicker (but then get nuts too)) is also handy.

Finishes and adhesives:
  • 1 gallon white water based latex paint
  • 1 gallon water based polyurethane, semi-gloss
  • 1.5", 3" brushes, 12" roller, pan
  • Cheap spray paint.  One can each: clear, white, black, grey primer.  
  • Titebond glue.  I mostly use original titebond, but there's Titebond II if you need waterproof.  Get one each of the 16 ounce tubes.
  • Twin tube 5-minute epoxy.  Also get a twin tube of regular epoxy.  JB Weld is handy too.  CA glue (aka krazy glue) also has its uses.  A small container of gorilla glue might also be useful, but watch out, it expands times.  Research and experiment to get a feel for what kind of glue to use when.

Clamps:
  • 8 12" 1-handed bar clamps.  They're stinking expensive, but very useful.  
  • 2-4 each of 18" and longer clamps.
Hand tools
  • 25' tape measure
  • Get a big cheap screwdriver set.  Also good to get a handful of ordinary #2 phillips screwdrivers.
  • To go with your machine screws, get a set of open-ended wrenches and a socket set.  Don't have to go crazy; cheap stuff is okay here.
  • A reasonable set of drill bits.  You don't have to go crazy on this.  A big cheap Ryobi assortment is probably fine.  Forstner bits are handy once you have a drill press.  Be sure to get a countersink or two.
  • 3 cheap box cutters
  • Automatic punch. I *love* mine.  Keeps your drill bits from wandering when you go to drill.
  • Tri-square - most come with a scriber pin, more accurate than a pencil for marking your cut
  • Big square
  • Speed square
  • T-bevel
  • 48" straight edge
  • 48" level
  • Basic framing hammer.  5 pound sledge is also handy.
  • Basic cheapish set of pliers, pipe and adjustable wrenches.
  • Couple of basic metal files.
  • A cheap set of chisels can be somewhat handy.

Sandpaper:
Watch the number of sheets you get per package, price goes down quickly with quantity.
This claims to be 80 sheets, although it's also 80 grit.  Photo says 8 sheets, but description says 80-sheet package is available online.  If it is 80 sheets, that's a pretty great deal.  Get one package each of full size sheets of 80, 120, 220 grit.
Repeat for whatever sander(s) you get.

Safety:
  • I'm partial to these face shields.  They say they're not a replacement for safety glasses, but I prefer them.
  • I'm partial to these corded earplugs since they're easy to take out and tuck into my shirt collar when I'm not wearing them.  I tend to reuse them, so a box should last you a long time.
Basic Power Tools:

Avoid cheap brands like the plague they are.  Husky, Task Force, Black & Decker, Skil, Buffalo, Chicago all suck, as does everything at harbor freight.  Don't waste your money.

Dewalt tends to be quite good.  Ridgid is okay.  Ryobi is OK but on the cheap side.  Porter Cable, Fein, Milwaukee and Makita and Panasonic, Bosch are good. 

Buy corded tools unless you're setting up a high volume shop where you'll be using tools every day.  Otherwise your batteries will be either discharged or outright dead by their fifth use a year from now.
  • 12gal Ridgid shop-vac.  Amazingly useful.  Fill up air mattresses, suck the water out of your clogged dish washer.  I love my shop vac.
  • 2 each 50', 25', 12' extension cords.  Triple-headed are handy but not mandatory.
  • Corded drill with keyless chuck. I have this one and it's okay, this one might be nicer.
  • Small impact driver.  This one is a conundrum: I absolutely love them, but they're only available as cordless and the batteries are extortion.  They're super small and light and can drive your 2 1/2" screws through a pair of 2x4s with no pilot hole, counter sink it, and then shear the head off if the wood doesn't budge.  Get these (not the double-headed ones), preferably the plastic box rather than this 5-pack, since they do wear out.
  • Circular saw (be careful!).  A modern, pricy alternative is a "track saw".  I haven't used them, but they look like a really nice solution for clean long cuts on plywood.
  • Sawhorses and adjustable height rollers.  I'm not very knowledgeable with these, but you need good workpiece support when you go to cut things like sheets of plywood
  • Drill press.  This floor standing model is the one I have and it's utterly ubiquitous; almost everybody makes them just like this.  Desktop variants look a lot cheaper and might be fine; the floor standing nature itself isn't important to me.  
  • Random orbit sander (safe, but minimize dust) and velcro sanding disks (see above for grits)
  • 1/4 sheet vibration sander (safe, but minimize dust) and pre-cut papers (see above for grits)
  • Jigsaw or sawzall.  I haven't used these much, but contractors use them a ton.  The sawzalls are more about getting into corners to cut out plumbing or cut off nails, whereas jigsaws are about cutting curves into plywood.  Not very accurate.
Optional but handy:
  • Angle grinder (be careful!) and 3 each thick disks, cutoff wheels and sanding wheels.  This is mainly about grinding through metal; cut angle iron, cut off protruding screws (leaves an ugly scar), cut through locks.
  • Air compressor & nailers.  A pancake compressor is fine for nailers and inflating things.  Air staplers and 16/18 gauge brad nailers can be very handy.  Somewhat scary; be careful.  Big contractor framing nailers are more scary.  If you want to work on cars, you'll want a compressor with a bigger tank to run a big impact wrench.
  • Compound miter saw, preferably 12" with slide.  Powered (not battery) Laser is nice too.  These are how contractors chop up a whole pile of 2x4s in seconds.  Make sure you have good outfeed support (side wings to support long workpieces on both sides of the saw).
  • Handheld belt sander.  I never used these much, but my dad loves his.
  • Router.  Be careful, they're dangerous.  This is getting into finer woodworking; mostly people go crazy at first and roundover or chamfer everything.  Linked is a small handheld one which is very wieldy.  You can get a bigger one and get or make a router table (bigger the table, the better), which can be quite useful for certain things.  (My porter cable is super quiet, which I love). 
  • Jointer & planer.  If you start getting into fine woodworking, these are what you use to clean up rough cut hardwood.  (Otherwise you pay a big premium for S4S "surfaced 4 sides" hardwood).  You can also clean up 2x4s, but 2x4s are mostly a lost cause for fine woodworking.  This jointer is meh, this planer is great.
  • Further afield are things like bridgeport vertical knee mills, which are amazing tools that everybody should learn how to use.  But they're mainly for precise metal machining.
  • CNC routers are also amazingly useful tools, but they're huge and expensive.
Expensive tools:

Don't cheap out on these.  Cheap versions suck and are scary, and you can get along without these tools until you're ready to take the plunge on a good one.
  • Bench sander.  Bench sanders are amazingly useful.  I've never found one I'm totally happy with, but don't get anything they have at home depot.  Disk sanders are generally useful, spindle sanders are useful for curved pieces.  I use the 6x48" belt sander the most (first link).
  • Bandsaw.  These are arguably safer than table saws (although the sawstop has what no bandsaw does).  They have a complimentary set of abilities to a table saw: they can cut curves and resaw really thick pieces, but the neck depth is a limitation.  Get 3tpi 1/4" wide (or 3/8") blades.  Don't get higher tpi or wider blades unless you're cutting a lot of super thin stock or doing a lot of "resawing".  There are good arguments for whether to buy a table saw or bandsaw first.
  • Table saw. Table saws are arguably the most dangerous tool in the shop.  They're powerful and useful and can be quite accurate.  They're the best tool for ripping (long cuts along the long axis of the workpiece, parallel to an opposite edge), but for cross cuts they're usually limited by how much table is between the front of the blade and the near edge of the table -- beyond that, the miter gauge is hanging off the table.  Cheap table saws are scary.  If you're going to get one, get a sawstop if at all possible, preferably the cabinet saw rather than the contractor version.  Table saws are used a lot in fine woodworking (boxes and small cabinets), less in framing/contracting.

Thursday, March 07, 2013

Light bulb aisle

Big box stores are different in Phoenix.  Here is a typical bike helmet:


















But most fascinating was their light bulb aisle, which extended across the entire length of the western wall of the store.  It had many types of bulbs I hadn't before encountered.  Most memorably:

Madness White (60W)

A dark bulb (dimmable), for over-lit rooms

A long-tube fluorescent replacement bulb consisting of a single LED element that runs the length of the bulb.  Requires twice the wattage of the bulb it replaces, and requires welding goggles while in use.

This bulb claims to illuminate only that which is false

The new "DC to daylight" bulbs, which are actually a misnomer, since they go well beyond daylight.  Primarily marketed to snobby photographers, the gamma/cosmic emissions increase lifetime cancer risk by 1%.

A line of bulbs with greater than 100% efficiency, but these require special wiring to collect the excess energy.  Otherwise they can overheat on sunny days.

Instagram-branded "Sepia" bulbs which guarantee washed out yellow illumination that fades at the edges of the room.

For climate skeptics, a bulb which emits CO2 and runs on kerosene.  (Available as a track light or for standard edison socket)

A complete line of bulbs for Tetrachromats had a demo display, but they all looked the same to me




Sunday, January 06, 2013

Making graphene

This article piqued my interest, since it suggests that making graphene can be made cheaply and easily:
http://hackaday.com/2012/03/20/print-your-own-supercaps/

That article includes links to the March 2012 paper by the folks at UCLA: "Laser Scribing of High-Performance and Flexible Graphene-Based Electrochemical Capacitors" as well as the methods paper that gives details on how they prepared it.

Turns out Rice university did it in 2011:

Their paper, "Direct laser writing of micro-supercapacitors on hydrated graphite oxide films", is behind a paywall, but here's their supplemental paper with some useful stuff: http://www.nature.com/nnano/journal/v6/n8/full/nnano.2011.110.html

Where to get the graphite oxide?

Somebody set this site up: https://graphene-supermarket.com/ but the materials are expensive.

Pretty much everybody seems to use some variant of the Hummers process to make it from graphite flakes.

These guys claim an improved and safer process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTooYDp1KD4

This tantalizing snippet claims you can make it just from glucose:

"Graphite oxide has also been prepared by using a "bottom-up" synthesis method (Tang-Lau method) in which the sole source is glucose, the process is safer, more facile, and more environmentally friendly compared to traditionally “top-down” method, in which strong oxidizers must be involved. Another important advantage of Tang-Lau method is thickness controllable ranging from monolayer to multilayers by simply adjusting growth parameters."

But the article is behind a paywall and so I haven't been able to read it: http://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2012/jm/c2jm15944a

This guy demonstrates some variant of Hummers method and talks about where to get the ingredients: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbalCi6S_Oc

Sunday, October 21, 2012

The dilemma of population ethics

What's population ethics?

A while back I read through this excellent introduction to population ethics:
http://plato.stanford.edu/entries/repugnant-conclusion/

Popluation Ethics is about how to make ethical decisions that affect a whole population.

For example, if we introduce contraception to a starving country and this raises millions out of poverty by preventing the conception of millions of children, is that good or bad?

As the above link points out, we don't have a good answer to that question.  I've been trying to answer it for several months now, and haven't gotten very far, even after cornering half a dozen philosophy grads.


One standard approach to population ethics, adding up all the utility (or happiness) of all the people in the population, suggests that the population would be better without contraception -- even though they're still miserable, there are more of them, so their combined small utility outweighs the greater happiness of the much smaller population they'd have with contraception.  In fact, by this rule, a billion absolutely miserable people would be considered better off than a million happy, healthy people.

The opposite standard approach, of using average happiness instead of sum total happiness, favors contraception, since we divide total happiness by the number of people.  So the smaller nation full of happy people is considered better off.  But this too fails -- this rule would hold that a single, utterly ecstatic person would be better than a million happy people.

Population as a single organism?


But I think I've finally come across a useful approach: model the population as a single organism.  This opens the door to a lot of metaphorical reasoning using the tools we use for ethical questions about a single person.  (Of course, as always, we still have to check whether the conclusion still makes sense for the population, but at least it gives us a place to start reasoning).

Instead, what if we consider the population as a single organism?  We don't consider a 500 pound person healthier than a person of ideal weight, nor do we amputate a leg just because you have a weak knee (thus raising the average health of your remaining limbs).  

So far, that's pretty promising -- it looks like we can avoid the huge+miserable and the tiny+ecstatic problems the standard two approaches have.  So how should we answer the contraception question?

Well, how do we normally evaluate the health and value of an organism?

  • Life expectancy
  • Degree of impairment or illness
  • Interaction with its environment
These seem relevant to our contraception question:
  • Life expectancy: Does the smaller, wealthier country with contraception have a better chance of surviving in the long term than the larger poor country?  Probably, if they don't go overboard and stop having kids entirely.
  • Impairment/illness: This seems like the best approximation to poverty and hunger.  It's better to be small and healthy than huge and sick.
  • Environment: It's easy to miss this with the standard approaches, which tend to focus on the happiness of the individual.  But we immediately see the problem of a big elephant in a small cage, or a lion in with the lambs.
My favorite aspect of this approach is that it favors moderation: populations that have good prospects of long, healthy life.  Too big creates environmental and health problems, while too small makes you more likely to get eaten or stepped on.

Drawbacks?

I like this idea, but we should probably also consider the drawbacks.  The biggest ones I can think of are that the approach could tend toward fascism, and that it could be used to excuse genocide.  

Fascism is a risk because we don't normally worry about the rights of individual cells in our bodies; the whole is what's important, not the parts.  This is a real risk, and we saw it go badly for the countries that have tried it.  In a more general sense, though, most countries espouse the notion of eminent domain and other principles that allow the state to override the desires of an individual.  And we kill or sequester individuals who pose a threat to the well being of others.  So perhaps fascism is the same risk to a population that blind hedonism is to an individual -- in some sense the organism is seeking its own good, but damage to the pieces that make up the whole is deadly in the long run.

The risk of justifying genocide is related: the idea that if your right hand offends you, cut it off for the good of the whole.  Here again I think the problem lies in theory vs. practice.  Proponents of genocide in history always claim that the targeted population is hopelessly corrupt and dangerous, which has always been untrue.  But the more abstract principle, that certain people or groups are too deadly to be left alone (whether these are invading armies or serial killers running free), seems generally accepted.

Conclusion

I never thought I'd be the kind of guy to say "What we really need here is a philosopher!"  But it's really true; real, practical problems like how to handle foreign aid and what kinds of charity to support are rooted in population ethics.  I'm not sure how well my approach will hold up in the long run, but I like that it's something that doesn't immediately lead to absurdities.

What do you think?

Friday, October 12, 2012

AT&T (and SBC) sucks

Where I live, AT&T is the only company I can get basic phone service from, and I have to have basic phone service before I can get DSL from a decent ISP like Sonic (who won't go out of their way to throttle your connection, hijack your DNS, or share your surfing habits with the government).

AT&T, of course, would rather have you spend hundreds of dollars a month on crappy internet, phone, TV and wireless service.

Pitfalls:

  • AT&T's site, once you get to the part where you're signing up for basic phone service, is incredibly slow.  Literally minutes for each page to load.  Find something else to do while you wait.  Clicking "continue" multiple times will screw things up, so click it once and wait.  Sometimes you'll get a "loading" cursor, sometimes you won't.
  • After I made it all the way to the end, I learned that the second-to-last confirmation page doesn't work with Chrome.  So I got to restart with Firefox.  Yay.
  • Of course they're going to try to upsell you every step of the way, including charging you if you DON'T want to appear in the phone book.  (But at least you can list what name you show up under).
  • Metered rate service is the cheapest option.  Under this plan you actually have to pay for local calls.  Or something.  I don't care; I'm not even going to hook a phone up to it.  And of course they're not going to make that easy to find. 
Step by step:

  • Once you've put in your address, at the next page, mouseover "Home Phone" and click "Home Phone Plans".
  • Then click "Order now" under the "Start New Service with AT&T" on the right sidebar.
You can probably figure it out from there.

Thursday, October 04, 2012

Mountain View City Council 2012 Election Forum

There are 4 slots and 6 candidates running for City Council in Mountain View, CA.  I went to a Q&A session with the candidates on 4 Oct 2012.

Overall impressions: (this is the only part of the post where I'm injecting my own opinions)

  • McAllister: "the politician" experienced political speaker, some buzzwords and self promotion
  • Inks: "the moderate". Moderately libertarian approach, government experience.
  • Neal: "the libertarian".  Strongly libertarian; limited government
  • Capriles: "the green candidate".  Said the most about environmental concerns.
  • Clark: "the economist".  Seems smart
  • Kasperzak: "the incumbent".  Current mayor.  Supports programs like plastic bag ban, narrowing El Camino Real.


Mike Kasperzak: incumbent Mayor. http://www.kasperzak.org/
Platform:

  • Affordable housing
  • Transit & parking
  • Fiscal sustainability

Jim Neal: sysadmin https://www.facebook.com/nealformountainviewcitycouncil
Platform:

  • Limited government
  • Responsiveness to residents

Chris Clark: incumbent Planning Commission member, Planning Commission http://www.electchrisclark.org/
Platform:

  • Maintain fiscal prudence
  • Transportation infrastructure

John Inks: incumbent vice-Mayor. http://www.electinks.com/
Platform:

  • Balanced budgets
  • Avoiding increased fees & taxes

John McAllister: incumbent Planning Commission member. http://johnmcalister.org/
Platform:

  • Financially strong city government
  • Strong negotiation
  • Effective transportation network


Margaret Capriles: data quality consultant at HP http://margaretcapriles.com/
Platform:

  • Integrated solutions across neighborhoods
  • Transportation infrastructure
  • Fiscal responsibility
Questions:

Dealing with traffic on N. Bayshore
  • Kasperzak: paid parking, discouraging people from driving, personal rapid transit
  • Neal: Encourage housing in N. Bayshore, increase parking
  • Clark: Improved stoplights, bike & pedestrian overpasses, personal rapid transit
  • Capriles: There's a study in progress.  Can we get to 0 cars in MV?
  • McAllister: Ask local employees. Increased access points into N. Bayshore.  MV / Google / VTA collaboration.
  • Inks: There's a study in progress.  Increased access points into N. Bayshore
High speed rail.  For or against?
  • Inks: Against.  Too politicized, focused on "bookend" cities.
  • McAllister: Support in theory.  Lots of issues in practice
  • Capriles: Conceptually good.  Devil is in the details.  Current state "has me questioning"
  • Clark: Initially interested.  It has become a mess.  Let's take advantage of the electrification funds for VTA.
  • Neal: No brainer: against.  We can't afford it.  Report just came out showing it's ridiculously too expensive.
  • Kasperzak: Voted for it, California needs it.  Shot themselves in the foot with it.  Issue has already been decided; how will we deal with it in Mountain View?  Tries to be optimistic: people complained about Boston's Big Dig, but appreciate it now.
Stevens Creek bridge connecting Shoreline Business Park & Moffett Field?
  • Kasperzak: We need a bridge.
  • Neal: Haven't looked a lot at it; I'd need to research it.
  • Clark: Agrees with Kasperzak.  We need a bridge for public safety reasons.
  • Capriles: How and where we put a bridge are important.  Need to consider environmental concerns.
  • McAllister: Could help with N. Bayshore access issues.
  • Inks: Maybe a bridge, maybe not.
How would you create a more environmentally sustainable city?
  • Inks: We're on a path to sustainability.  Bike paths, reducing auto traffic.
  • McAllister: Need to make sure we can fund things.  In recent general plan we did recycling, public transit, got input from people.
  • Capriles: We're working toward zero waste.  Can we remodel buildings instead of tearing them down?
  • Clark: MV is on the right path, need to implement general plan.  Building near transit routes, green building standards, improving transportation infrastructure.
  • Neal: Getting traffic lights and public transit right would go a long way.  Took the bus to get to the event -- took 2 hours and $8.  Recycling pickups to once a week.
  • Kasperzak: Energy upgrade Mountain View program.  Lost a great opportunity by not including housing in N. Bayshore
Plastic bag ban
  • Kasperzak: I'll probably support it when the report comes out.  We need to change our habits.
  • Neal: Opposes "police state" mandates like this.
  • Clark: Negative externalities exist and we should compensate for them.  We'll look back in 50 years and marvel at how lazy we were.  Outright ban may be unnecessary; maybe something phased in.
  • Capriles: What's good for the whole?  We need to sacrifice and suffer for our children.
  • McAllister: My business uses paper bags.  Supports the ban.
  • Inks: Uses canvas bags himself, opposes the ban.  Plastic bags don't even show up on the list of major waste projects.
Google wants to build housing E of 101, city council voted it down.  Your opinion?
  • Inks: Housing proposal was generic, not google-specific.  Housing should have been considered, got sidelined.  Ultimately planners will decide.
  • McAllister: Voted against.  Lack of services would cause a lot of travel over the freeway.
  • Capriles: Opposed.  Saw no compelling reasons.  Environmental impact was unclear.
  • Clark: Supported it while on the commission.  Goes to work daily, services weekly.  Strongly opposed that the 20-year plan didn't include housing N of 101.
  • Neal: Supports it.  Google has services on-campus, what's the deal about lack of services?  Let people live close to work.
  • Kasperzak: Supported it, wanted it as part of public transit commitments.
Affordable housing?
  • Kasperzak: Supports subsidized housing.  
  • Neal: Would work with developers.  Would avoid bureaucracy where developers get stuck in government approvals process.
  • Clark: Overall housing supply needs to increase.  We had no new rental complexes for 10 years.  Look for long-term solution.  Truly "affordable" housing is pretty tough here.
  • Capriles: Need developers, employers and citizens to work together.
  • McAllister: Has employees who need affordable housing.  Need increased density, but we don't have enough density to support affordable housing.  If the community wants it, the community should support it, perhaps through tax.
  • Inks: Affordable housing is subsidized housing.  Public survey didn't support parcel tax.  Unfair to force developers to bear the costs.
Narrowing El Camino Real to 4 lanes?  http://www.grandboulevard.net/
  • Inks: Opposes. VTA proposal didn't make sense.
  • McAllister: Opposes.  VTA proposal is nonsense.
  • Capriles: Opposes.  Where would the cars go?  Good idea in theory.
  • Clark: Opposes.  Issue seems to be off the table.  We have other approaches in progress.
  • Neal: Opposes.  It'd create a huge mess.  Existing express buses aren't getting used. Opposes efforts by county and state to consolidate things; keep Mountain View unique.
  • Kasperzak: Lone supporter.
How would you use the Shoreline Community Fund?
  • Kasperzak: Supports sharing excess property tax income with local schools.
  • Neal: Complex issue, doesn't have a personal position.  Fund created in 1969 to redevelop this area.  Send it to the citizens for a vote.
  • Clark: Wants a longer term solution.  Supported the short term stopgap measure.  Make sure funds are first used for redevelopment, also schools secondarily.
  • Capriles: Supports the schools, but also important to consider whole picture.
  • McAllister: Supports sharing with schools after other budgetary concerns are considered.
  • Inks: Send it to the voters, agrees with Neal.  
Closing statements:
  • Inks: Solid record of protecting taxpayer dollars.  Constituent support.
  • McAllister: Residents first.
  • Capriles: cited HP experience, community service accolates.  Commitment to the community.
  • Clark: Represents young workers.  
  • Neal: Cares about representing local citizens, getting issues in front of voters.
  • Kasperzak: Has experience as the incumbent.