Compile NVidia Jetson TX1 kernel on device

There are lots of threads about problems compiling new kernels for their Jetson TX1 boards.  A lot of the issues seem to be related to the cross compilation environment.

The TX1 is pretty beefy, so I figure it can compile its own kernel.  I installed an SSD to give me enough disk space, then copied the source_sync.sh script from the Jetpack installation to the device.  I had it download the 'tegra-l4t-r24.2.1' tag which is currently the latest version.

I copied over the .config file from /usr/src/linux-headers-3.10.96-tegra/ to my kernel/ directory to start with the stock kernel config.  Then I ran make menuconfig to set the additional modules I wanted.

Alas, when I tried to compile with make -j6 zImage, I got errors like this:

  VDSO32C arch/arm64/kernel/vdso32/vgettimeofday.o
/bin/sh: 1: -Wp,-MD,arch/arm64/kernel/vdso32/.vgettimeofday.o.d: not found
/mnt/ocz_ssd/leopard/kernel/arch/arm64/kernel/vdso32/Makefile:40: recipe for target 'arch/arm64/kernel/vdso32/vgettimeofday.o' failed
make[2]: *** [arch/arm64/kernel/vdso32/vgettimeofday.o] Error 127
scripts/Makefile.build:455: recipe for target 'arch/arm64/kernel/vdso32' failed

Apparently it has something to do with backward compatibility to 32-bit ARM, which I don't even care about.   To get around that, I installed the 32-bit toolchain with 'sudo apt-get install gcc-arm-linux-gnueabihf', then export CROSS32CC=arm-linux-gnueabihf-gcc

The next issue was this:

drivers/platform/tegra/tegra21_clocks.c: In function ‘tegra21_cpu_clk_init’:
drivers/platform/tegra/tegra21_clocks.c:1064:31: error: logical not is only applied to the left hand side of comparison [-Werror=logical-not-parentheses]
  c->state = (!is_lp_cluster() == (c->u.cpu.mode == MODE_G)) ? ON : OFF;

That was fixed with an extra set of parentheses:

  c->state = ((!is_lp_cluster()) == (c->u.cpu.mode == MODE_G)) ? ON : OFF;

That seems to do it.  I could then make -j6 zImage as well as Image, modules and (sudo) modules_install, then copy the zImage and Image to /boot.

Brass hammer from hex bar stock

My friend likes to make wooden mallets:

So I thought he might get a kick out of making one with a brass head.  Here's the head so far.  (he's still thinking about what to do for a handle).

This much 1.5 inch hex bar stock cost me about $50 on ebay, enough to make two heads:

The bar was too big to fit through the headstock on the lathe, so on the mill I clamped it sideways and faced the ends, indicated it vertical (overkill), used the edge finder to find the center, then center drilled both ends:

I tapered a piece of scrap steel rod in the chuck to make a dead center.  That let me turn the piece "between centers", which is a lot more accurate than clamping the bar in the 3-jaw chuck.

I was inspired by this brass hammer, but I wasn't sure if I wanted to use the same shape for the head.  I decided on a taper, and tried several different variants.  Because of the center hole, I had to discard the first half inch or so of stock, so it was a great place to experiment.  Here's a 20 degree taper:

Collar grooves look nice but ultimately I kept it really simple:

This profile was really tempting as well: flat / taper / flat leaves a sort of brickish look that's very hammer-like:

In the end, a 10 degree taper at each end was all I wanted.  It produces a beautiful parabola shape and emphasizes the intrinsic beauty of brass.

I did a pass all the way across to cut off the corners (which were a little banged up), and should have gone a little deeper since there were still a few blemishes.  I didn't notice them until I had already cut off the piece, so I couldn't put it back between centers, and I don't trust the 3-jaw chuck to hold it true, so I didn't have an easy way to clean up the corners later.

Here you can see the dimple I put in the very center of the head to make it easy to put whatever kind of hole my friend decides to use for attaching the handle.

I also rounded off the round edge of each face of the hammer so that it doesn't immediately mushroom when used on a flat surface.  But really, this hammer is more decorative than useful; it's several pounds, so it's not great for delicate work, and the whole point of a brass hammer is to get dinged up instead of the steel part you're trying to nudge.